By Allie Richmond, M.A. ‘26, Art History
Every year museum goers flock to The First Ladies exhibition in Washington, D.C., to view apparel worn by women who have shaped a unique political role. The Smithsonian’s display typically changes following presidential inaugurations, when first ladies and their fashion designers donate new ensembles. But there is no exhibition on presidents’ inauguration fashion despite the intention and meaning behind their sartorial choices. Brooklyn-based fashion historian Summer Anne Lee hopes that might change — a sentiment she shared, along with her research on presidential attire, in a D.C. Mondays program on August 12, 2024.
Lee began studying the history of presidential dress in 2020. She holds an M.A. in fashion and textile studies from the Fashion Institute of Technology, where she now teaches classes. To connect with interested viewers, she launched an Instagram account (@presidentialfashionhistory) in 2023 as a repository for her findings. In her D.C. Mondays presentation, hosted by the Albert H. Small Center for National Capital Area Studies, Lee shared what she’s uncovered so far from analyzing presidential inaugurations.
George Washington established recurrent themes in inaugural fashion at the first U.S. presidential inauguration held in 1789 in New York City. Rejecting the British crown’s opulence and militaristic rulers’ elaborate decoration, Washington dawned simple, austere attire: a knee-length brown frock and trousers. His coat’s wool was sourced domestically from Connecticut and its gold buttons engraved with an eagle emblem, demonstrating Washington’s patriotism.
Andrew Jackson’s 1829 inaugural attire was more personal. It displayed his grief following the death of his wife Rachel, who passed away 20 days after the election. In accordance with mourning traditions, Jackson wore a black band around the base of his iconic tan hat. His all-black, high-collar suit, which signaled his deep mourning, established a signature look for his presidency.
Presidents have opted for more or less formality depending on preferences and circumstances. Franklin Pierce’s 1853 inaugural suit boasted intricate details and luxurious materials: an embroidered white silk vest and a black coat made from fabric sourced at London’s 1851 World’s Fair. Abraham Lincoln embraced practicality in 1865, adorning a heavy overcoat for protection against the cold. The quilted lining was embroidered with the words of Daniel Webster: one country, one destiny. The Civil War dominated Lincoln’s presidency, and preserving the union was his priority. Weeks later, on the night of his assassination, Lincoln wore the coat to Ford’s Theatre.
Lee’s research underscores the importance of presidents’ fashion. Whether at inaugurations, on the campaign trail or simply working in the oval office, their choices communicate specific political and personal attitudes. You can watch a video of this D.C. Mondays program below and browse upcoming topics on the website.
About the Author
Allie Richmond has a B.A. in art history and history and is currently pursuing a master’s degree in art history with a concentration in museum studies at GW. Interested in art historical research and museum management, she is the digital media editor for the Albert H. Small Center for National Capital Area Studies.